WEST INDIA TOUR (10TH FEBRUARY- 4TH MARCH 2009)
Beginning of the West India Tour
We left for our west India tour today (10/02/2009) early in the morning. After 6 hrs journey by Janshatabdi, we reached Delhi.
2nd day of the tour was full of excitement. Though we reached the airport well-ahead of time, due to confusion regarding the particular terminal from which we were supposed to board the plane, we, initially, felt, kind of little lost; however, the confusion was soon cleared. We rushed towards 1A terminal, all of us pushing our respective luggage in trolleys a little worried.
After undergoing all the formalities, we finally boarded the plane. Today, the queue for security-checking was particularly little too long. To add to the delay, the plane didn’t get the take-off permission from the ATC for another 45 minutes. Despite such delays, we all felt really elated, for we were traveling together in a group of 30 members.
We arrived at Pune airport nearly 2 o’ clock in the afternoon. Having had our lunch, we got ready for an interaction session with one of the esteemed personalities and erstwhile forest managers, Prof. Maslekar. He spoke threadbare about the history of forest in Maharashtra right from the days of colonial rule. His opening sentence was: “Welcome to the City of Gibson, the 1st Conservator of Pune appointed by the Government of British India.”
He touched upon many other events which he considered were pioneering and exemplary like the formation of 1st Forest Labour Adivasi Cooperative in 1847, 1st Irrigated Teak Plantation, etc. Talking about social forestry, he was quite convinced that it created awareness among people about tree and tree culture; Forest Service being brought to the public glare and domain; hundreds and thousands of environmental related non-governmental organizations (NGOs) came up.
However, he regretted that despite such potentials and charms of the Forest Service, the forest organization as a unit hasn’t been able to get the kind of support, recognition and social standing as it rightfully should do.
Visit to Watershed Management Area: Darewadi- Shekewali Watershed Progress
Watershed activities had been started way back in 1996, which continued for 10 years till 2006. One gentleman, rather a Godman, Fr. Bacher was the mastermind behind this work, particularly in this area. He played a pivotal role in bringing the funds necessary for the works. This watershed project in Darewadi-Shekewadi, in fact, was a part of the Indo-German collaboration.
We were informed by one of the members of the Village Watershed committee that, earlier, there used to be widespread poverty; lack of civic amenities; water-scarcity, including for drinking purposes and so on; but today, the village had recovered pretty much: enough water in their wells both for irrigation and drinking, reduced loss of soil, sufficient cultivation from the fields, increased employment opportunity in the village itself. Therefore, migration out of the village during lean season had also come down substantially. These were the achievements the village had made after the implementation of Watershed Project since 1996.
We could observe series of continuous contour trenches across the gradient of the landscape of the village. In the ridges of these trenches, many species had been planted like Acacia sp. At various points in gullies, different soil and moisture conservation techniques had been used like check dams with live fence on their ridges, check weirs, masonry weirs and nala bunds.
I enjoyed this visit.
Arrival at Ahmedabad
It was one real memorable morning today. We loaded our luggage quickly into the bus. Just as we were all-ready to move and boarded the bus, the bus didn’t start because of low battery. We got down to push it to start; the bus wasn’t started even now. For a while, all of us became concerned that how we would reach railway station on time. Immediately, it was decided that lady officers and two or three other male officers would leave for station with whatsoever much luggage that could be loaded in two Tavera cars, and the two of them would arrange for other cars. Accordingly, we unloaded our belongings from the bus and began loading all over again in these two cars. Everything was finally arranged and settled, and the cars were almost leaving; just then the bus got started. This was too much! Though it wasn’t funny, we broke into laughter. We once again had to reload the rest of the luggage back to the bus, and the rest of the male officers boarded the bus finally. We started from our place of stay in Mumbai very early in the morning, precisely at 4.15 a.m.
We reached Mumbai Central Railway Station far-ahead of time, despite initial delays. After half an hour or so, Shatabdi Express bound for Ahmedabad arrived on the platform # 3. Sharply at 6. 25 a.m., the train began its journey. As and when we occupied our respective seats, most of us instantly fell asleep. Honestly, the rigors of continuous journey and less sleep were gradually engulfing us and affecting our enthusiasm.
The journey was pretty comfortable; newspaper, tea/coffee, other eatables, including food came at regular intervals. After 6 and half hrs of journey, the Shatabdi eventually arrived at Ahmedabad Junction.
Around 4.30 pm, we went to Gurjari, a showroom of handloom and handicraft items, an outlet of the business-house of the Gujarat Handloom & Handicraft Corporation. The show room was dotted with varieties of hand-made sarees, kurta, other artifacts, etc.
After sometimes, the Managing Director, Mr. S. K. Chaturvedi, an IFS officer of 1986 batch, arrived. An informal interaction had been arranged with him. Before starting the interaction, he personally came near each one of us respectively for our introduction; it was indeed a very good gesture on his part. Thereafter, he dwelt upon the nitty-gritty of his organization; how ever since taking over the management of the corporation, which otherwise had been running on losses consecutively for many years, he had turned-around the corporation, and pull the organization out of the sickness and put the organization on right-track again. Earlier, before his joining the corporation, he continued that the corporation would earn only Rs 80 lakh annually, whereas its total earning in the current year was Rs 2.5 crore. So, since last four and half year, exactly his tenure so far, the corporation had begun to make profits. He added that, naturally, his employees, including sub-ordinates, other stake-holders like artisans, wanted him to continue, though he himself wanted to move to new organization.
Towards the end of this interaction, we asked him other questions also which he candidly, fluently and convincingly told us. I must say that it was a nice interaction. Later, all of us took a round of the show-room; many of us purchased some items too. Officially, today’s schedule was over; while others went to different places from there itself, I along with Nivi and others, came back to our respective rooms. Oh, on the way, we took our dinner. When I reached my room, it was already 10 o’clock in the night.
Visit to Centre for Environmental Education, Social Forestry Division and Gujarat Ecological Education and Research, Ahmedabad
Our first visit was Centre for Environmental Education (CEE). Spread over an area of 14 acre of undulating landscape so chosen as well as deliberately modified as per the objectives and requirements of the organization, this Non-governmental Organization, mostly receiving its funding from the Ministry of Environmental & Forest (MOEF), Government of India, is primarily involved in the business or, properly put, dedicatedly engaged in ‘Interpretation of Biodiversity’. Respectively, Ms. Priya Nair and Mr. Murthy quickly gave the highlights about the organization and made us acquainted with the ‘Nature Trail’ being conducted within the campus itself. The campus is home to 100-150 spp. of birds, 10-15 spp. of mammals. The soil is silty, sandy-loam and clayey.
We undertook a ‘Nature Trail’ through the forest inside the campus. Many tree spp. have been planted there like Samanea saman, Anthocephalus kadamba, Bamboo spp., Pandanus, Moringa olifera, etc. Attractive and innovative designs of signage had been put up at different places either briefly describing about a particular tree nearby or animal(s) associated with certain trees around emphasizing the significance of each living being in the food-chain. The oldest tree planted in the campus is a Samanea saman (Rain tree) planted by renowned space scientist of the country, late Vikram Sarabai. We also got to see some birds like Eurasian collared dove, purple sun-bird, drongo, etc. Yes, though a small patch of artificially raised and properly maintained and managed forest land, that too, in the heart of an explosively advancing city like Ahmedabad, it really resembled a natural mixed forest.
Now, Ms. Meena Nareshwar made a beautiful presentation regarding the ‘Zoo Interpretation Programs’ of the organization. Under zoo interpretation, the organization had been working on various places of immense importance from the view point of biodiversity conservation like natural heritage sites, zoological gardens, botanical gardens, etc. She explained that interpretation was a process of communication. Various packages were designed and developed to educate and create awareness about nature conservation. The organization had been catering to various target groups like school children, college & university students, government agencies like zoos, forest department and private organizations also.
Zoo interpretation includes preparation of ‘Zoo Master Plan’; capacity building of the target groups; marketing of products & services accrued from nature; and the like.
Around 11.30 a.m., we left the organization and arrived at Social Forestry Division of Gujarat Forest Department, Ahmedabad. An NGO called ‘Trend Analysis and Reasearch Unit (TARU) made a presentation. The founder chairman, Mr. Jayantibhai Lakdawala gave a brief account of what his organization had been working for. He told us that Social forestry evolved in Gujarat, and ever since then, the farmers had been growing trees in their fields along with agricultural crops. The farmers had been tremendously benefited by this new activity, a combination of forestry and agriculture, referred to as ‘Agro-forestry’. However, this hadn’t been easy. While earning of the farmers and tree cover increased respectively, the official procedure associated with harvesting of trees raised in private lands remained cumbersome, which, in turn, discouraged tree planting or added to the woes of the poor farmers. He proudly claimed that his organization had been toiling towards easing the sufferings of the poor farmers; his organization spearheaded the cause, and eventually, the trees grown in private lands had been removed from the purview of forest produce through a recent amendment (2007) in the Gujarat forest law.
Mr. Lakdawala made a daring statement that no research institution of repute had done or achieved anything worthwhile towards developing self-sufficiency in fuel-wood requirement. He added that like the immense importance and urgency that were shown to achieve our food security in the decade of 60, the forestry sector needed the similar attention for achieving fuel-wood self-sufficiency.
Thereafter, Mr. Rama Murthy, 1997 batch IFS, Deputy Conservator of forest, Social Forestry Division, Ahmedabad, interacted with us. We had our lunch there once the interaction was over. We were taken to ‘Kailash Van’, a small plantation developed under Urban forestry, a brain-child of Gujarat forest department. Here, people’s religious sentiments and feelings had been incorporated with raising trees like particular trees had been associated with ‘rashis’ or ‘stars’ of people, and accordingly they were encouraged to raise trees in particular plots earmarked for that particular ‘rashi’. Kailash Van was a dumping ground earlier; but now, it was a beautiful small tree-garden, nicely furnished with concrete chairs, proper walkways and of course a big statue or replica of Hindu God, ‘Shankar’. It was one of the success stories of Social Forestry Programs in Gujarat.
Despite such achievements of these plantations, a ripple was created in my mind. I felt very immensely that this concept of associating religious feelings might have led people to plant and create awareness about environment; but it had an inherent flaw. This, to me, had, sort of, catered to a particular religious community, in this case- Hindu only. In my perception, in the long run, this patch of land had all likelihood of developing into a place of rituals and religious activities of that particular religion. “That would be very dangerous and wrong”, I felt. I’m of the opinion that public land shouldn’t be allowed to develop into an exclusive domain of any particular community or group, howsoever much that land may have been well-developed or beautified.
From there, we reached Gujarat Ecological Education and Research (GEER) Foundation. There, Mr. C. M. Pandey, Chief Conservator O Forest, an officer of 1980 batch, addressed us. He made a presentation and explained quite exhaustively the tenets, set-up, mandate, activities and achievements of the GEER. He told us that the GEER was being conceived and modeled in the lines of the Wildlife Institute of India (WII). Like WII, GEER is also an autonomous body under the Forest & Environment Ministry of Government of Gujarat set up in 1982. The Foundation has been registered as a Society under the Indian Societies Registration Act, 1890 and as a Public Trust under the Bombay Public Trust Act, 1950. The organization has been entrusted with the job of – ecological education (public awareness, mass communication), ecological research and training and capacity building. This organization serves as an interface between government and public.
Later, he showed us an interactive CD ROM: Wings of nature, a window to the world of major Indian birds, developed by the expertise available in the GEER itself. It was a software in fact. A lot of thoughts has been given into designing and developing the software; indeed a very helpful tool to both advanced, sophisticated, researchers/scientists and novice, school children, beginners and laymen alike. We all got one copy each of the said CD ROM as a gift from the organization.
Thereafter, we took a round of the Jurassic Park, dedicated to the life-history and fossil remains of the life-forms found in Jurassic era. It was marvelous; life-size models of various dinosaurs were erected in the park. They were a great treat to our eyes.
From there, we returned to our place of stay: Forest Hostel, Ahmedabad. Later in the evening, a dinner was arranged by the Gujarat Forest Department. The Principal Chief Conservator of Forest, other senior officials of the department along with their families attended the dinner. During our interaction session, I posed my queries regarding urban forestry directly to the PCCF. He gave me answers that didn’t really pacify my apprehensions and curiosities. He was a bit taken aback by my question, and was embarrassed.
Finally, we began our dinner at around 9. 30 p. m. It was a nice food. Today’s program ended with the dinner.
Visit to Punit Van, Little Rann of Kutch and a Wetland
Unlike other days, we left Forest Hostel leisurely at 9. 30 a. m. We directly came to Punit or Sacred Van, the first Plantation developed under Urban Forestry. It was bigger than Kailash Van. The extent of the Punit Van was 6 ha. More amenities like wider pathways, bigger & better signages, solar lamps, one open-amphitheatre and larger sized patches of different ‘Rashis’ were what distinguish it from Kailash Van.
The Deputy Conservator of Forest, Ahmedabad, welcomed us and succinctly told us about the Van. He told that the plantation area had been developed like a garden which would also serve the purpose of stress-reduction. Jogging, morning-evening walks, sight-seeing, etc. had been allowed free of cost. He continued that the area adjoining it was a usual plantation. A ‘wilderness path’ had been developed there for the interested people to undertake nature walk. He informed that the people were voluntarily involving themselves now-a-days like Senior citizens group had sponsored the concrete chairs put up in the area; Gujarat Gas Agency had sponsored the solar lamps. Likewise, JK Paper Mills, Reliance, etc. had also sponsored.
Important species raised were: Aegle marmelos, Ficus bengalensis, Saraca indica, Emblica offiicinalis, Ficus religiosa, Strychnos nuxvomica, etc.
From there, we reached Zainabad. After having had lunch, we visited the much talked-about Little Rann of Kutch, the world-renowned home to wild-ass, which is found abundantly presently in India only. Certainly, the vast area was barren with whitish soil surface all-around, clear and simple evidence of high level of soil salinity. It was my first time to see such large area under such high degree of salinity. The concerned Ranger of the area who accompanied us told us that during monsoon, the entire stretch of land got flooded with rainwater.
The area was devoid of vegetation, except Prosopis juliflora. This bushy, thorny shrub/small tree was present in patches in various places. Anu Mam told that those wild asses generally survived on this particular plant. We got to see a herd of wild-asses from close quarter, but not a very close-up view though.
Now, we came to another place with 2-3 lagoons. People were cultivating salt in these lagoons. I interviewed a local farmer. He informed me that he was selling the salts at Rs. 50 per ton. Cultivating salt was his only occupation; the earning from it wasn’t sufficient for his family; it didn’t completely fulfill life’s basic needs even.
Lastly, we went to a wetland. The sun was disappearing behind the western horizon and the surrounding was gradually getting engulfed by the dusk. A huge number of birds was visible even from very far distance. Many of us, particularly, Santosha, Prabuddha, Saket, Basu, Sreelakshmi and Tripti really became excited at the sight of such large flocks of different birds at one place simultaneously. They all rushed towards them with cameras and binoculars and captured those birds in different poses and actions. Evidently, this place was awesome.
Our today’s program was over. We returned to the resort named Desert Courser. It’s a beautiful place.
Arrival at Jamnagar
We visited the same wetland again today, which we visited yesterday. The water was shining due to the reflection of morning sun. As expected, there were good numbers of birds even this time. Bird watching in early morning has its own charm and thrills. It’s altogether a very different experience. The freshness in the air, mild blow of wind, gentle rays of golden sunshine and different calls of various birds infuse tremendous feeling in any nature lovers, particularly bird-watchers. We have in our batch some real enthusiasts-passionate bird-watchers, namely Santhosa, Prabuddha, Saket, Sreelakshmi, Ranjita and Tripti, who, in fact, forwent their breakfast to come to this wetland slightly earlier than the group so that they could experience and witness more birds, more activities in the early hours of the morning. Indeed, with the dawn, the silence and stillness in the wetland is all of a sudden broken by the hustle and bustle of birds.
While others were lost spotting birds; keenly observing them to identify the species, I only enjoyed the immense beauty of the landscape which had further been added by the leisurely strolling flocks of birds in the stagnant, salty-water of the pond. We spent sometimes there before leaving for another wetland on the way to Bajana.
Here, we could see a large number of flamingos. These birds were freely and leisurely strolling, giving an impression either of their ignorance of our presence there or as if they were least bothered about us or kind of hinting that we’d unnecessarily encroached into their territory, and they weren’t liking it, i.e. we were uninvited.
As usual, others immediately began taking photos. The water in the pond was definitely less than the usual spread of water. I could clearly observe network of deep cracks on the soil. The soil was clayey; very hard near the banks, that is, away from the water; as we proceeded toward the water, the soil was gradually soft and sticky.
Prosopis juliflora predominantly grew in areas surrounding the pond.
Now, we came to Interpretation Centre: Bajana, Wild Ass Sanctuary Dhrangadhra, Range: Bajana. A comprehensive information about the Wild Ass Sanctuary Dhrangadhra had been put in this centre. Major information were: the Wild Ass Sanctuary is the fourth largest protected area in the country; it has been curved out to protect the unique flora, fauna and ecosystem of the Little Rann of Kutch (LRK); the prime attraction of this area is the Indian Wild Ass, a species which has several characteristics similar to horses and donkeys; and so on.
Finally, we reached Jamnagar at about 6. 30 p. m.
Visit to Reliance Energy Plantation & Marine National Park
Amazing plantation: a large tract of land under pure teak; mango orchard of different varieties and almost of same/similar appearance, height and size; strips of Casuarina equisitifolia on both sides of the road. I was awestruck by not only the beauty and meticulous management of the plantation; but also the sheer amount of commitment, effort, hard-work and money being spent on developing, at the first place, and maintaining it continuously. The plantation was about 9 year old.
Shri A.R. Kumbhar, explained to us that, initially, precisely before the beginning of the plantation activities, the soil of the entire plantation area was very shallow, sandy to medium black, very low in organic carbon and fertility, pH of 7.5 to 9.2 and EC of 1.5 to 5.3. Even the water was scarce. Therefore, he informed us that the organization undertook water conservation measures in a very large scale such as drip irrigation system on 100% area, black polythene mulching, extensive green manuring, abundant use of organic manures, well-knit rain water harvesting system and extensive watershed development. Thus began the life-history of this very young and vibrant plantation. Seriously, it could be possible due to such huge investment.
The plantation has been raised within the premise of the Reliance Petro-Chemical Unit, Jamnagar. The total area of the Unit is 7500 acres, including plantation, which is spread across more than 1600 acres. Here is the area-wise break-up of the plantation into various crops in acres: Mango (447), other fruits (103), teak (115), sawan (83), greenbelt (129), landscape trees and shrubs (579), medicinal plants (27), vegetables (05), coastal eco-development (126).
Thereafter, we visited the control room of the petro-chemical unit. The control room has been made full-proof against explosion/fire.
From here, we reached the Marine National Park. The Coral Reefs are amongst the most-spectacular, diverse and dynamic ecosystems of the world; on the other hand, they are highly fragile and susceptible to environmental changes. Considering their susceptibility and importance in ecology, Government of Gujarat declared the area as Marine National Park (MNP) in 1982 with a vision to provide legislative protection to this ecosystem and promote developmental and research activities for its betterment. This was the first MPA of its kind of the country.
Narara is spread over about 876 ha of area. We surfed through the calf muscle-height sea water for not less than 2 hrs. We had attired ourselves accordingly already: white canvas shoes, shorts, caps, goggles, etc. Merely 15 minutes walk from the rest house, we began encountering the various treasures of the marine ecosystem, and for which it is rightly being put under protection. Our first encounter was a sea crab, which, sensing our presence, got alarmed, and hurriedly hid beneath a small rock. We curious and passionate wildlifers couldn’t hold back our emotions and enthusiasms. Obviously, we didn’t proceed until we eventually took the poor crab out of its perceived safe-haven. The Range Forest Officer who was guiding us held it on his hand; all of us flocked around it, taking photographs from various corners and angles. Finally, we left it on the ground. Surely, it must have taken a great sigh of relief as we moved ahead leaving it behind and on its own world of wilderness. Though it was important to do like that so as to make ourselves acquainted with various life-forms, it also did create nuisance and discomfort to such life-forms.
Similarly, we met with many more organisms afterwards such as soft & hard coral, sponges, octopus and numerous varieties of fishes.
Lastly, we arrived at a nursery developed for raising seedlings of Avicennia spp. The small-sized raised platform of clayey soil formed the bed on which the seeds of Avicennia spp. were broadcasted. The Ranger informed us that the germinating percentage was almost 100%, and he was true. In the meanwhile, we had actually come back to the shore. There, he told us the difference between three Avicennia spp. Avicennia marina grew towards the sea where the inundation was more and prolonged; its stem was smoother; leaves, bigger-sized, whereas Avicennia alba grew towards the shore; leaf-margins, curved backwards and smaller-sized comparatively. Likewise, Avicennia offiicinalis looked slightly different with its stem having sort of nodes on it.
This visit to Marine National Park really widened my knowledge regarding coastal and marine ecosystems. I only heard and read about these ecosystems; but today, I practically saw for myself the distinct characteristics of mangrove vegetation like pneumetaphores, etc.
That was it for the day today. We returned to hotel at around 7.30 pm.
Journey to Sasan Gir through Porbandhar and Somnath from Jamnagar
As such, we didn’t have any official visit to any place today. It was journey whole day. We left Jamnagar for Sasan Gir. So, unlike other days, we weren’t in hurry. Having taken breakfast around 8.00 am, our bus meandered through the highway leading to Sasan. During the journey, in order to make it a little more fun-filled and interesting, Hindi version James Bond films were shown in the bus. It drove away our boredom and fatigue of such long bus journey.
At 12 noon, we reached the immortalized city of Porbandhar. This city had given a divine gift to our country nearly two centuries ago. It wouldn’t be exaggeration to say that the very existence of India as we see today got the nourishment and nurture from this very city. The history of Modern India is definitely incomplete without a reference to Porbandhar. As long as India remains, the contribution and name of this city in the conception, evolution and development of India will always occupy one of the top positions and will also be taken/written about in golden words.
What’s so special about this city? Yes, this city is really special. A semi-dhoti-clad, mild, meek-looking, messiah of truth, honesty and non-violence, down-to-earth, the ultimate epitome of man-management/mass leader/social-engineer, etc. whom the western-world, particularly the British Empire, mocked as a little, funny and cunning fakir, our Father of the Nation, Mr. Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi was born in this city on 2nd of October, 1869. While Mahatma Gandhiji has been immortalized for his yeoman services rendered to Indian society and achieving the freedom and independence of our country from the clutches and domination of colonial British Rule, Porbandhar has also been engraved in the history by virtue of being the birth place of this great personality of mankind.
We visited Mahatma Gandhiji’s home, which has been transformed into a museum. It’s open to all free of cost. People thronged to his home like we were doing to feel, understand and appreciate the making of great man, that is, transformation of Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi to Mahatma Gandhiji, the Bapu.
We had our lunch in a restaurant in Porbandhar itself. After that, we resumed our journey. Now, we reached another very popular city, which also played a significant role in the political life of post-independent India. Somanth city is a coastal urban settlement, a historic township, which finds substantial mention in Indian history because of repeated lootings and raids by the Muslim invader, Mohammad Ghazni of Afghanistan during 1000 AD or so. Historians described that Mohammad Ghazni looted and destroyed the Somnath temple, which stood just at the beach of Arabian sea, 17 times; but the Hindu devotees re-built the temple every time.
After independence, K. M. Munshi spearheaded the campaign for reconstruction of the Somnath temple. The first Home Minister of independent India, Sardar Vallab Bhai Patel, provided the support to the cause, and thus began the construction, despite official opposition and reluctance by the congress-run central government and the Prime Minister, Pt. Jawaharlal Nehru. Finally, a majestic temple came up near the old structure and on the foundation of the old temple. This new, magnificent temple was still being constructed; gold-coating was being done on various portions of the temple, especially the area within the sanctum sanctorum, various idols, etc. Standing at the coast, it appears as though the waves from the Arabian Sea repeatedly wash the temple. This adds to the beauty and sacredness of the temple. Really!
Besides, it was from this temple that the Hindu assertion for Ram Janmbhoomi Movement took off in late 1980s. Mr. Lal Krishna Advani, the then President of the Bhartiya Janata Party, undertook Ram Rath Yatra from this temple. Ever since then, the political history of the country has been changed tremendously. The BJP emerged as one of main political force/party in the centre.
We strolled in the beach for nearly 45 minutes. Finally, we reached Sasan Gir at around 7.30.pm. We took dinner by 8.30 pm. Immediately, we were asked to accompany the night patrolling party. All of us set out in 4-5 different vehicles for our maiden night patrolling in a national park, that too in Gir. I thoroughly enjoyed this experience. Alem, Nivedita, Anshuman, Dilraj, Mydeen and I got into one Maruti gypsy. Every one of us were really excited; our eyes, ever more curious and restless. We all peeped through the windows trying to locate any movement in and around the road as the gypsy moved ahead under the starry sky, calm, dark and dense forest. After 30 minutes of drive, we finally got to see two Lions: one male and another female. It was really great feeling. I saw Lion in live and from very close range only for the first time here. This visit into Gir forests for night patrolling was worthwhile, though we were very tired. By the time, we returned, it was already 11.45 pm. I was terribly exhausted.
Visit to Gir Protected Area, Kamleshwar: Study of Lion Habitat in Sasan Gir
Gir National Park/ ecosystem falls in Biogeographic Zone-4 (the semi-arid) and biogeographic province 4-B. Gujarat Rajwara is the last paradise of the Asiatic Lion, Panthera leo persica. The Government of Gujarat has declared an area of 1421.1 sq. km as National Park and 1153.4 sq. km as Sanctuary. Besides this, 470.5 sq. km forest area constitutes a Buffer Zone as Reserve, Protected and Unclassed Forest. Thus, a total area of 1182.6 sq. km forms the Gir Forest. Out of a total area of 1882.6 sq. km, 1502.7 sq. km falls in Junagadh District and 379.9 sq. km in Amreli District. The most important aspect of the Gir is that it has become a very stable ecosystem with tremendous regenerating, sel-supporting and sustaining power due to its rich and diverse flora and fauna.
Gir has tropical monsoon climate, which is very hot during the summer. Three seasons, i.e. summer, winter and monsoon are distinct. Late November to early March is cool and dry followed by hot dry season. The average rainfall is 1000mm and 600 mm respectively. Due to irregular monsoon and uneven distribution of rainfall, drought years are not uncommon.
Mr. Sasi Kumar, Assistant Conservator of Forest, Wildlife Division, Gir West, greeted us early in the morning in front of the Gir Orientation Centre. He briefed us about the Sasan Gir, which is situated on the West Division, headquartered at Junagad and one of the two Forest Divisions, of the Gir National Park and Sanctuaries. The Gir East is headquartered at Dihar. He also told us that only three groups of people lived inside the forest: Maldaris, Siddhis and Foresters/Park Managers.
Maldharis are an integral part of the Gir ecosystem as they have been living there for generations. They live in small hutments called “Nesses” in the forest areas. In the past, there was plenty of water and fodder available for domestic livestock of maldharis but with the passing of time increasing number of livestock exerted adverse effect on forest resource. Siddhis are another group of people of Negroid origin brought from Africa sometimes in 19th century by the Raja of Junagad for forestry activities. They are now part of the Gir.
Within 15 minutes, we took seats in vehicles: a caravan of four Tata Sumos and one air-conditioned minibus slowly pierced through the Tropical Dry Deciduous Teak Forests through internal forest roads- Kucha, rough, ups and downs, undulating and constructed without much earth-cutting. These forest roads served as the life-lines of forest/wildlife management. Inside the Sasan Gir, Mr. Sasi informed there were a network of about 800 km long such roads. These veins of forest roads provided accessibility to all the Beats and Compartments of Sasan Gir, and served as Fire lines too. They were actually Multi-purpose roads.
On the way, we came across three-four Lions. They were sitting in prostrate position just beside the road. We stopped and watched them for about 15 minutes. They were indifferent to our presence: still, calm, peaceful and seemingly content with themselves. It is exactly for these royal gestures that this animal has got the name of the King of Jungle. Certainly, a tremendous show of Royalty!
After sometimes, we got off the vehicles and began climbing a hillock. As we started our tracking, cracking sounds prevailed the surrounding for quite sometimes as dried leaves of teak fallen on the ground came beneath our steps. We reached the summit named ‘Amla’ huffing and puffing; but it wasn’t really difficult. From the top, the vast tracts of the forests were visible. The sun had already risen above the ridges and illuminated the entire landscape. It was looking really fantastic. The water spread of the dam called ‘Kamleshwar’ was clearly as well as nicely visible too.
This summit had been especially chosen as ‘Communication Centre’ for transmitting wireless messages to various guards and rangers, and also to higher officials because, as mentioned in foregone sentences, the entire area, including numerous hillocks at distant places from here was visible. As a result, this point provided good place for easy observation of any activity and monitoring purposes within the forests. We spent sometimes, not more than 20 minutes, here and then climbed down.
We came to the rest house built near the Kamleshwar dam for breakfast. Thereafter, we came to Kamleshwar dam itself. Here, suddenly, a question passed by my thought about boating in the water as a part of eco-tourism activity, which could be clubbed with the Tiger Safari already being done in the Gir. Mr. Sasi explained to me that it couldn’t be done so because the mandate of the protected area was conservation of nature and its ecosystems, which, according to him, would be compromised, if boating was added. How? He explained further that the tourists would litter the area, tourist density would increase, thus disturbing the peace and tranquility of the Gir.
We came back to the Guest House. By 11 o’ clock, we assembled again in Conference Hall. The Conservator of Forest, M.M Sharma, interacted with us. He was a fine gentleman, shook hand with each one of us before taking his seat. He candidly shared the rigors of the field and frontline works and responsibilities, the intricacies of managerial as well as administrative procedures involved and so on. Later on, he asked us to ask him questions. He was really very eloquent and informed, particularly about the issues confronting his Circle and, specifically, Gir. As usual, I asked a question related to people within the forest; here, about Maldharis. He accepted my argument that philosophically, capacity-building of the Maldharis, and training them sufficiently proficient in some modern skills for their livelihood before carrying out physical dislocation were essential, but reiterated that, practically, these things were little difficult to implement. Furthermore, he answered other questions raised by other probationers. Meanwhile, he avoided giving any specific answer to the problem of Lion relocation. In totality, this interaction resembled a small press conference.
It was time for lunch. Mr. Sharma, Conservator sir invited all of us for the meal.
For afternoon session, we were again taken into the National Park area and split us into groups. All the groups were told to make observations- whatsoever might be seen, and left us to track through a forest tract of about 500 m long. We made various observations like the teak was the dominant species covering about 70% of the area, other species included Ziziphus zuzuba, Cassia tura, Butea monosperma, Aegle marmelos, Acacia nilotica, Acacia catechu, Terminalia tomentosa, Cassia fistula, Sterculia urens, Carrisa carrunda, etc. These trees formed the part of Tropical Dry Deciduous Teak Forest Type. The teak trees were presently naked, I mean, they were without leaves or whatever was left on the trees were also dried. Naturally, despite sufficient density of teak and other trees, the canopy was widely open. Consequently, the exposed ground areas were covered by cymbopogon grasses: presently dried too. Again, the teak stems were invariably infested by termites. Since the management priorities here were wildlife conservation, otherwise, the trees were in bad condition from the point of view of Silviculture or timber production.
A small stream was still flowing nearby. A dilapidated Shiva temple, ostensibly because of irregular and lack of proper maintenance and management, stood just beside it. Certain species had been planted in its immediate neighborhood like Ashok tree, couple of mango trees, Nerium indica and Ficus religiosa. As we came near it, I observed that the species composition along the streams was altogether different; it harbored a riverine type small patch of forest along its banks. The primary species comprised of Syzygium cumini, and Pongamia pinnata.
We also came across nilgai droppings, antler of a cheetal, engineering measures like check dams for gully control/soil and water conservation, and management practices such as controlled burning. Finally, we arrived at one of the rest houses, where Mr. Sasi sir and Anu mam were waiting. After having taken tea, Sasi displayed as well as explained about different kinds of scats; he continued that right identification of size, shape and nature of scat helped immensely in knowing about the animal, its feeding behavior, health status and so on.
While returning for the guest house, we halted briefly in a settlement of Siddhis, one of the residents inside the Gir forests, and interacted. Our day’s program ended hereafter.
Visit to Veterinary Hospital of Sasan Gir Wildlife Division, Devaliya Interpretation Centre, Gir East Division and Diu
Our schedule comprised of visits to, respectively, Veterinary Hospital of sasan Gir Wildlife Division, Devaliya Interpretation Centre, Gir East Division and Diu.
This Veterinary Hospital of Sasan Gir Wildlife Division was a treatment cum rescue centre. The animals brought here were mostly injured ones, others included those individuals who had forayed into human habitations and became dangerous to human life and property; these animals included both lions and leopards, thus reducing man-animal conflicts.
The Veterinary doctor in the hospital told us that the animals were captured only for treatment; after the animal had regained the health and vigor, they would be released back into the forest: in the core areas in case of leopards, in other territorial areas in case of lions. As much as possible, they performed the treatments In-situ; only in difficult and serious cases that animals would be taken to the hospital. Rarely, tranquilizing techniques would be performed, and if it so demanded, chemical solutions like cetamine hydrochloride and xylagene hydrochloride would be used.
From here, we reached Devaliya. Devaliya was a unique place that both carnivore like lions and their prey animals such as cheetal, black buck, nilgai were left free on their own; they roamed about as they would do in any natural condition; even, the entire setting of the landscape, including the forests, of the Devaliya wasn’t very much different from the forests in the Gir national park; however, the Devaliya was actually an enclosure spread over sufficiently large area, a kind of bigger zoo; the lions here were no more able to hunt down their preys; the managers used to provide food to them. In other words, the lions in Devaliya had lost its instinct of preying; the element of wilderness in them was not to be seen anymore; they were really docile now.
The Devaliya and, especially, the Interpretation Centre here, had, in fact, been established as a part of India Ecodevelopment Project- Gir, which aimed at providing facilities similar to those available in a zoo to public, developed by Centre for Environment Education; the Lion Safari being conducted in the Devaliya was a part of mitigating measures so that the pressure of tourists in Gir was within the manageable level or carrying capacity, and it didn’t pose any disturbance to the wilderness of the Gir. We took a great Safari ride.
From here, we proceeded towards Mr. Sasi sir’s house. He had arranged for our breakfast, and invited us. It took a lot of time to reach his place; we were all very hungry. Actually, the breakfast time had passed; the lunch time was approaching. We reached his house around 11.30 am. As soon as we reached, everyone rushed directly towards the food. In the menu, non-veg, chicken was also present. It was a delight to the eyes of all the non-vegetarians; it further elevated their hunger and appetite. Indeed, it was a sumptuous meal! We all thanked Ms. Sasi mam for serving us such delicious food. Once our brunch was over, we took leave of Mr. Sasi sir and left for Gir East Division.
The Deputy Conservator of Forest, Gir East Division, welcomed us in a beautifully developed sea-resort by the side of the beach. Every time ripples of sea waves knocked on the bed of sands on the shore, roaring sounds accompanied by moist-laden, cold sea-breeze, dominated the air and soothed the coastal environment; I felt as if I were taken to the pedestal of eternity. A very different kind of palm: Borassus dichotamus was planted within the resort. The branching pattern was very different- firstly, stem forked into two, and individual branches would fork into two more branches respectively, and so on.
Mr. Raja Sir, DCF interacted with us after the lunch. He highlighted on various aspects and issues confronting his Division. He discussed about the feeding behavior of the lion and increasing spill-over of lion population to other adjoining areas of the Gir. I wanted to know more about the real cause of this changing trend, which he promptly attributed to the increasing lion population only. On being asked if it was anything to do with decreasing buffalo population reared by the Maladharis following their relocation from the National Park areas, which served as 70% of the food-habit of the lions, he refuted it as false and unscientific argument citing recent studies conducted by someone from Wildlife Institute of India, Dehradun. He also showed various graphs and figures as evidences in support of his arguments like increased number of cheetals in the park areas, etc.
He informed us that one more Lion Safari was being developed in Gir East Division, and the official and administrative works were being worked-out.
From here, we crossed-over to Diu, erstwhile Portuguese settlement until 1965, an island situated off the west coast of Gujarat. A small stretch of sea divided it from Gujarat. A bridge had been constructed across it. This visit was more for sight-seeing: we visited a Fort built sometime in 16th century followed by a short halt at a very old Roman Catholic Church.
Around 11 o’clock in the night, we reached back to Gir guest house.




Return to Ahmedabad via Velavadar Black Buck National Park

Very early in the morning, we set out for our return journey to Ahmedabad. After about 7 hrs of bus journey, we reached Velavadar Black Buck National Park. Our lunch was arranged here.
The Black Buck National Park, Velavadar consists of Reserve Forest area of villages Velavadar, Kanatalav, Adhelai and Bhadbhid. The management plan also covers Reserve Forest area of villages Rajgadh, Mevasa, Ganeshgadh, Savainagar and Madhiya adjoining to the Black Buck National Park, Velavadar.
After lunch, we visited the Interpretation Centre present in the Park. The Black Buck National Park situated in Bhavnagar district was a unique place because of the stable population of Black bucks and Wolves, nesting and breeding of Lesser Floricans and large congregation of four species of Harriers.
Far and wide, a golden-brown meadow of Cenchrus celiaris was profusely growing through-out the area till the horizon. The area was a typical ‘Savannah’ type of grassland dotted with individual trees, mostly Prosopis juliflora here and there. In the midst, a herd of some 10-15 Black bucks was grassing without any hurry or worry. That was a real treat to our eyes.
Talking about the park and management interventions being carried-out, the Assistant Conservator of Forest, told us that maintaining the grassland ecosystem and arresting further succession in the area were the main priorities. Thus, Prosopis juliflora seedlings, which would come up from the seeds being scattered throughout the area along with the droppings of numerous bird species during monsoon would have to be removed.
In between this endless grassland landscape, a network of sufficiently wide gaps could be observed. He clarified that these gaps were created by removing or cutting grasses within these patches, which, in turn, acted as fire-lines, and the grasses so removed would be distributed to local people in return for no penny.
Just before leaving this place, Anu mam took our leave. She wouldn’t be accompanying us in the rest of the tour schedule; instead, Arun sir would join us for the remaining days from tomorrow. Finally, we all proceeded towards Ahmedabad.
Address by Director of AFRI and Visit to CAZRI and Guda Bishnoi Village
The Director of Arid Forest Research Institute (AFRI) addressed us regarding the historical profile of the institute, for what objectives it was established, how it started creating greenery works/ planting activities and turn-around the arid, semi-desert land of Jaisalmer and other areas within the jurisdiction of this institute. He mentioned that the ‘Mandate’ of his organization was forestry research for conservation of biodiversity and enhancement of bio-productivity in Rajasthan, Gujarat and Dadra & Nagar Haveli with special emphasis on arid and semi-arid regions.
In life, everyone has his/her share of story to tell or share. Similarly, he also dwelt upon his experiences accumulated during his service career. The words of wisdom from elders or seniors in any walk of life are really educative and inspirational, so were his.
We saw the tissue culture as well as soil science laboratories. The scientists-in-charge respectively explained various works being done by their laboratories. The tissue culture lab was mostly using micro-propagation techniques for many plants, and protocols of many species facing problems with respect to their multiplication viz. Azadirachta indica, Ailanthus excelsa, Commiphora wightii have been developed for large-scale and rapid mass multiplication. In soil science lab, the scientist told us that the main works being carried by the division were water management, sand dune stabilization, reclamation of problematic soil, etc.
Thereafter, we were taken to Central Arid Zone Research Institute. It was established in 1952 as Desert Afforestation Centre, a part of Forest Research Institute. The Principal Scientist, Dr. L.N. Bima, Head of the Forest Division, greeted us and explained so many things related to the origin and various changes in nomenclature of the organization with period and needs of the time to its present name, CAZRI. The Institute mainly worked towards arresting the movement of desert.
He also showed us various products and by-products derived from the pods of Prosopis juliflora by newly developed methods of extraction by him. Fine powder of pods of P. juliflora and P. pallida could be used as sugar; mesocarp of the pods on being roasted could be used as coffee; squash could be obtained from Salvadora fruits, and salvadora fruit jam as by-product of this extraction; etc.
The main attraction here was ‘Hydrophonic System’, designed and developed by him. It was a kind of scaffolding of six hollow pipes having small holes made at short intervals along the length of the pipe placed horizontally and one above the other. In these holes, plants in polybags had been raised; moss sphaganum had been used as substratum for the rooting of seedlings raised in these holes. An electric pump-set put below the structure was used to provide water from the small tank made near-by. He told us that the water requirement was judiciously monitored and managed through this system.
We then went to Arid Horticulture Farm within the Institute where we saw many salt tolerant fruit species grown on large scale. The important ones were amla, pomegranate, date-palm, pear, etc.
Here after, we came to the Village Guda Bisnoi, located on left hand side of the Jodhpur-Pali National Highway at a distance of 20 km from Jodhpur. It had been declared as ‘Closed Area’ as per section 37 (1) of Wild life (Protection) Act, 1972. The human population of the closed area was predominately of Bishnoi community.
The major works of forest department were maintaining water-holes for animals during dry season and protection against any illegal activities like poaching in the area. The Assistant Conservator of Forest responsible for the management of the area narrated that the famous, rather the in-famous case of Chinkara hunting by Salman Khan happened in this area only. We then came to ‘Amrita Devi’ Forest Conservation Memorial which had been dedicated to the Shrimati Amrita Devi and 363 other people who laid their lives defending or for the cause of preservation of Prosopis cineraria, when a minister named Girdhar Bhandari in the court of the Maharaja of Jodhpur ordered his army to cut the trees along-with people, who were embracing the stem of the trees in 1787.
It surely was a great sacrifice worth emulating everywhere, especially now-a-days, because the forest cover had been decreasing quickly and human needs and greed were burgeoning beyond the carrying capacity of the nature. Though the atrocities meted-out at people were really cruel, the sense of conservation among Bishnoi community during that time when people weren’t much aware about environmental issues was commendable, rather unparallel in the history of mankind. Hats off!!!!!
Visit to Desert National Park
Having arrived at Jaiselmer in the wee hours of 25th February, our first program of the day was visiting the Desert National Park. We came to ‘Akal Fossil Park’ situated within the park where fossil wood: rock-turned-woods, especially angiosperms, had been preserved. The terrain was very hard, rough, rocky, very less soil, undulating land surface with small hillocks mostly devoid of vegetation, and the individuals of Lasiurus sindicus, a very important fodder grass, Commiphora wightii, Capparis decidua, Acacia Senegal, Acacia tortolis were found very far and few in between. In low lying basin, occasional growth of Salvadora oleioides and Prosopis cineraria was also seen.
The Divisional Forest Officer of the Desert National Park told us during the course of interaction that the Great Indian Thar Desert constituted nearly 9% of the geographical area of India; one of the smallest deserts in the world; however, very rich in biodiversity. Therefore, he continued, in order to protect the fauna and flora of the Thar, National Commission on Agriculture had laid down emphasis on creating a Biosphere in this region in 1976, and consequently an area of 3162 sq km falling in Jaisalmer and Barmer selected in 1980 to be developed as the Desert National Park (DNP).
We then reached a plantation developed on an erstwhile completely barren land or sand dune. It was a part of Sand dune Reclamation Program. This plantation had been raised in 2006-07. Several species, viz. Acacia tortolis, Prosopis cineraria, Zizyphus sp., Acacia Senegal, Colligonum polygonoides, etc. had been raised. Excellent piece of greenery had been developed in the vast sea of denuded, degraded, sandy and rocky topography around. Highlighting the planting techniques used, the concerned Assistant Conservator of Forest told us that the tree spp., were planted in July during 2-3 days of rain. In 20 ha, 10000 plants had been planted in individual pits of size-45×45×45. To ensure moisture availability, mulching around the individual plants had been provided.
Later in the evening, we enjoyed a ‘Camel Safari’ in another part of the DNP. This part was slightly greener than the rest of the area; Lasiurus sindicus grew fairly well; it provided a congenial habitat for Great Indian Bustard, the largest Indian bird, for which the Desert National Park is famous. Luckily, we got to see one of them.
Visit to Indira Gandhi Canal
Indira Gandhi Canal is one of the greatest engineering feats that the country had made after she gained freedom. It is one of the ambitious projects that the nation had taken up to quench the thirst of millions of people living in one of the driest and most difficult places in the world to live-in. Parts of Rajasthan, the homeland of Thar desert in its western part, particularly, Jaisalmer, Barmer, Jodhpur, etc. practically had no river system; the region had been frequently hit by drought; water had been perennially scarce; life was obviously all the more tough.
Indira Gandhi Canal brought a man-made river into this perennially thirsty region. There was a tremendous change in the socio-economic conditions of the people; agriculture once again flourished; prosperity reached people; general perspective of life and living standard improved so much. This indeed was nothing short of a miracle!
The canal had been draining water from Rabi and Beas in Punjab into Western Rajasthan. It was definitely a long journey for the water in the canal, traversing vast tract of different landscape on the way, covering a mammoth distance of 650 km. So, a substantial length of the canal ran in Punjab, precisely, 204 km and the remaining bigger part running within Rajasthan itself.
Such large traveling of water through dry tracts with meagerly available vegetation posed inevitable problems. Earlier invisible, but very much ingrained within the system, dark clouds were slowly gathering and with time took demonic shapes and forms. In nutshell, this canal also brought about numerous problems too. The areas falling along and around the canal got deteriorated; they turned more saline or water-logged, thus adversely affecting the initial good agricultural harvest brought about due to coming of canal water in this region. Many people were affected, many villages abandoned and deserted by the villagers. Also, high velocity hot and dry wind, locally called ‘loo’, prevailed in these regions pretty too frequently. Therefore, the canal got silted by sand deposits brought by these winds, and thus necessitated de-silting work very year, which reduced the efficiency of the canal as well as added to the financial cost.
To address these complex situations, a large-scale afforestation program had been initiated all along the canal. The planting activity was divided into two phases: 1st phase included the districts of Hanuman ghar, Sri Ganga nagar and Bikaner (1974) and 2nd phase covered parts of Barmer and Jaisalmer (1984). In 1st phase, Eucalyptus spp. were raised in plenty; but in 2nd phase, it was avoided because of lot of objection and negative campaigns against its plantation by many non-governmental organizations (NGOs).
A strip of 20 rows of trees with spacing of 4×3 m covering 200m width on the left bank and 100m width on the right bank had been raised perpendicular to the direction of the wind along the canal. Ever since this plantation had been raised, the results so obtained were quite impressive. A beautiful green belt of Tecomella undulate, Dalbergia sissoo, Zizyphus spp. so created not only reduced the problems of siltation of the canal by sands from wind, water-logging and salinity; but also improved the micro-climate and created habitat for many avifauna.
Visit to Nahargahd Wildlife Sanctuary & Bio-diversity Forest, Jaipur
Nahargarh wildlife sanctuary comprises the rocky and almost denuded hill ranges right adjoining the state capital of Rajasthan, pink city of Jaipur. We all gathered on one of the banks of the Jalmahal Lake, so named after a beautiful, magnificent palace standing in the middle of the lake. The Divisional Forest Officer, Central Division of Jaipur, addressed us and made us acquainted with issues concerning the Nahargahd wildlife sanctuary, notably encroachment, sewage disposal and wetland management. Talking about the encroachment, he emphasized the need for practical and pragmatic approaches to deal with such complex situation as it involved human lives, property and numerous administrative intricacies which couldn’t be solved only through scientific logic and/or legal course of actions. He told us how the condition of the lake had been changed: from a dirty, stinking, reservoir of sewage dumped from the residents of the city, about 70000 liter/day into an excellent wetland ecosystem. He conceded that until two years before, the lake was a source of embarrassment for its notorious foul-odor, which was further aggravated by its location being right on the entrance to the city, thus tarnishing the image and name of the city.
From here, we went to one more bank of the lake, a very good site for bird watching. One Mr. Harshvardhan, a very nice gentleman and an amateur, experienced and dedicated conservationist, who was also the Chairman of a Non-governmental Organization called Tourism and Wildlife Conservation Society and a member in the State wildlife Board as well, interacted with us. He informed us how he took the lead in cleaning the Jalmahal lake, removing the foul-odor from the water by systematically and scientifically removing the sewage waste coming from the urban households, developing certain small patches of lands with certain species of plants/grasses and forming a sort of tiny islands in the lake, which altogether, in turn, developed the Jalmahal lake into a beautiful wetland ecosystem, supporting large number of bird species, including certain migratory species like Osprey, which had come from Europe.
The lake water looked clean, clear and, definitely, free from foul-odor. To ensure it, he continued that the sewage drains had been diverted; sewage water had been made to move around the lake from one block to another sequentially in such scientific manner that the water, as it reached the core of the lake, automatically, got cleaned. In addition, he told that at certain points underneath the lake water, air-pumps had also been put-in to provide oxygen into it. All these activities had been possible because of years of continuous and concerted efforts of many passionate wildlifers, naturalists, aware and concerned citizens, including himself.
Now, we were addressed by the Principal Chief Conservator of Forest, Rajasthan in the midst of greenery and lap of beautifully developed and managed urban forest called Kapoor Chand Kulish Smiriti Van, also known as Bio-diversity Forest spread across an area of 108 acres on the foothills of the Aravali range. He gave an insight into the over-all geography, general forest types, ecosystem, flora, fauna and biodiversity of Rajasthan, besides, of course, the administrative and managerial activities required to be performed by the forest department. He was very informative.
This bio-diversity park had emerged as a big pollution-sink and purifier of harmful emissions of air from the city. The atmosphere in the city had remarkably been improved; people had got a sufficiently large, beautiful island of trees in the vast sea of concrete buildings which encompassed their needs for recreation and aesthetic satisfaction, thus ensuring a healthier life. They took solace in the shade of trees and beauty and fragrance of various flowers raised in the park; people preferred to come here to relax and get substantial amount of peace away from the daily hustle and bustle of city-life.
An Interpretation Centre had also been created in the park describing various flora, fauna, especially avifauna available in the park. The Deputy Conservator of Forest explained later that the infrastructure development in the park was worth some crores of investment and the work began immediately because of direct and special interest shown by the former regime, particularly the Chief Minister herself, Ms. Vasundhara Raje. However, the proper official procedural mandate for its funding was not followed. As a result, as of now, he said further that the work was facing financial difficulties due to no further fund. The Jaipur Development Authority had refused to support the project in the next financial year. The DCF was emphasizing that before taking up any big project like that it should be ensured that the mechanisms for funding were worked out properly and through proper official procedures.
Some of the plants were: Acacia auriculiformis, Albizzia lebbek, Albizzia procera, Bauhinia alba, Cassia fistula, Cassia siamea, Callistemon lanceolatus, Delonix regia, Erythrina indica, Grewia asiatica, Lannea coromandelica,etc.
Visit to Sariska Tiger Reserve
While going towards Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, we visited Sariska Tiger Reserve, which came on the way. The Sariska Tiger Reserve, nestled in the oldest mountain ranges-“Aravallis” is a repository of serene dense forests, wide valleys and sprawling plateaus. Sariska is a natural grandeur housing over 401 plant species, 211 bird species in an area of 881 sq. km. Only 14 sq. km of very dense forests in Rajasthan have been ascertained in Sariska only (Forest Survey of India Report, 2003).
The forests of Sariska are an assemblage of ecological diversity, exemplified with varying composition. It is classified under the Dry tropical Forests and encompasses Anogeissus and Boswellia forests, Riparian zones (possessing Palm phoenix sylvestris, Syzygium cumini, Mallotus philiphinensis) and dry grasslands with patches of Bamboo area.
This Tiger Reserve, as the name itself indicates, is famous for its Tiger conservation. Unfortunately, few years back, there was hue and cry across the country following the sudden disappearance of Tigers from the Reserve; it remained in lime-light nearly through-out the year. Of course, this was a serious issue for Tiger Conservation efforts.
During our interaction with the Chief Conservator of Forest (Wildlife), Mr. S. Shekar, he candidly accepted certain lacunae in the monitoring and protection mechanisms. He began, “Ever since this episode, the various provisions and new measures had been incorporated in the Tiger Conservation efforts through-out the country through new amendments in the Wildlife Protection Act, 1972 and other legislations and rules.” He said that this was a great lesson for the park manager.
The Government was keen to have Tigers back in Sariska. So, a Tiger Relocation Package worth Rs. 100 crores was formulated by the Planning Commission; however, the National Tiger Conservation put conditions such as relocation of villages inside the Reserve, complete over-haul of the field and frontline staff and regulation of tourists in-flow to the temple inside the Reserve. Otherwise also, he added that the Tiger conservation needed elimination of human habitation from core areas in order to avoid any human-animal conflict and also to provide a real wild habitat to tiger.
Hence, as per the plan, he informed that 5 tigers should have been relocated from Ranthambore, but presently, only 3 could be done and one Bagani village in the core area had been relocated, and monetary compensation of Rs. 10 lakhs had been disbursed to every relocated family as per new compensation measures.
A wildlife expert from the Wildlife Institute of India, a veterinary doctor working in the Reserve presently, Dr. Nigam vividly narrated each and every sequence of translocation of tiger from Ranthambor to Sariska. First animal was a male tiger which was done on 28th June, 2008, another a female, on 4th July, 2008 and the third one very recently on 25th February, 2009, only 4 days ago. All the tigers had been air-lifted, which was itself a new experience for all the people involved. He passionately told us that hardly did they deviate from the set process or decided plan and procedure.
The animal being relocated had been kept in an especially constructed enclosure having a good-enough area with vegetation no different from the area outside it, but with small modifications like little bushes of dense shrubs being developed at certain points for the animal to take shelter. While they wanted to have an enclosure of 100 ha, but for paucity of fund; only 1 ha area of enclosure had been possible at the present. The enclosure had been made by erecting four-and-half meter high wire-mesh with iron rods in between at short intervals and concrete foundation extending beneath the ground surface to support the wire-mesh. Also, the lower part of the wire-mesh, up to about one-meter height from the surface had been wrapped through the circumference of the enclosure by a yellow- coloured, opaque, thick polythene sheet so as that animal couldn’t see outside, whereas people could see and monitor him/her round the clock. There two such enclosures had been constructed @ of Rs. 30 lakhs. Outside these enclosures, watch towers had also been constructed for continuous monitoring of the animal.
We saw very fresh pug-marks of both the tiger and the tigress. The field staffs, the ACF and Rangers who accompanied us told that both the animals had been roaming together only recently.
Visit to Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary/ Keoladeo National Park
Nature and history joined hands over 250 years ago to create the world famous Keoladeo National Park. Initially, a natural depression, it was flooded after ‘Ajan bund’ was constructed between 1726-1763 by Maharaja Suraj Mal, the then ruler of the princely state of Bharatpur, at the confluence of the two rivers, Gambhir and Banganga. The inundation resulted in the production of a lot of aquatic vegetation, which attracted a very large number of migratory birds. In nutshell, it is a man-made wetland.
Surrounded by mountains from all sides; villages all along the periphery; boundary wall constructed all through the perimeter of the park and spread over 29 sq. km, it is one of the smallest as well as the only National Park in the country having been separated by boundary wall. It’s a unique piece of wild-habitat for particularly large number of avifauna. The water in the park dries up during summer, rendering it a temporary wetland. When the water is sufficiently available, different species of birds in large numbers flocked into the park from different parts of the world, the most notable being the Siberian Crane, for wintering and breeding. Certainly, a wonderful oasis for birds and their lovers: birdwatchers.
Early in the morning, we all set sail in three small, country-boats along a small channel of shallow standing water for a bird watching trip followed by rickshaw ride. Everywhere, we could see variety of birds: some busy feeding, others gliding above, floating on the water, some others flying away hurriedly as we neared them. The boatmen were employees of the forest department, while the rickshaw pullers were local people, who had been given permits to operate the rickshaw cycle within the park by the Director of the park with certain mutual understanding like helping the park management in the proper protection of the park.
Both the boatmen and rickshaw pullers were pretty knowledgeable about the birds. From far-off distance, they could easily identify and tell the name of the birds, including other animals such as turtles. I must confess that they were far-far better than my understanding of birds and animals. Some of the birds seen there: Large and little cormont, White-throated kingfisher, Rufous tree-pie, Sandpiper, etc.
Between morning boating and rickshaw ride, we visited Interpretation Centre dedicated to Late Salim Ali. Developed in collaboration with Swaroski Crystal Company and Forest department, it housed a life-size model of Sarus crane fully made of Swaroski crystals.
Later in the day, Arun sir explained about the problems of water in the park and its management. He added, “During summer, water completely dries up. Drying itself isn’t a problem. Since it’s a temporary, artificially created wetland, water management is always the top most priority in the management intervention being undertaken in the park. And due to increase in the command area in the upstream of the river which feeds water to the park following increased height of the embankment, of late, the water for the park is gradually becoming inadequate. Through an ecological study conducted in 1980-1990 under the able guidance of renowned Salim Ali, a minimum of 550 m cu ft of water had been ascertained inevitable for the park. So, during the month of first 15 days of July, it is a very hectic time for the park management to ensure the release of water from the Anja bund, which villagers aren’t so readily willing to do.”
We came to the Anja bund to have a real glimpse of it. The pondage area was covered with lush green wheat crop; the entire area gave a look of a vast agricultural field in fact. Sir told us that during monsoon, the area got flooded up to 14 ft water, and rest of the times in the year, people used them for cultivation. Due to large deposits of silt, the crops were luxuriantly growing.
Visit to Taj Mahal, Taj Nature Walk, Ravine Reclamation Site and Chambal National Park
Our schedule began with a visit to Taj Mahal, the legendary monument which had been constructed as a symbol of love: the epitome of love. The Mughal Emperor, Shajahan, had sanctioned the construction of this white marble tombstone for his beloved wife, Mumtaz, who died during her 14th child-birth. 20000 workers toiled day and night for at least 17 years, and then this magnificent building came up. Located just by the side of the river Yamuna as it curved/turned left-ward, the architectural design of the Taj Mahal represented the Koranic-version of Heaven. Naturally, it’s no wonder that the Taj Mahal is considered one of the wonders of the world.
From here, we took a Taj Nature Walk, a patch of forest of mostly Prosopis juliflora and other aesthetic value plants, which had been developed and properly managed by the Social Forestry Division of Agra. It envisaged to address the growing pollution level in and around the Taj Mahal; to ameliorate the air condition and add to the greenery and aesthetic value of the surrounding areas of the Taj. Of late, the continuous discharge of harmful fumes and gases into the air had become menace; they led to the corrosion of this historical monument, which is an indispensable part of our cultural heritage. Recognizing the need for preservation of Taj Mahal and other monuments, the Ministry of Environment & Forest, Government of India took the initiative of afforestation program in big way. This Taj Nature Walk is also a part of this ambitious plan.
The DFO, Social Forestry, Agra, Mr. Janu, interacted with us, led through the Nature walk and explained various activities being undertaken in the area. Concrete path-ways had been constructed; iron-benches, concrete chairs, two beautiful watch towers had been constructed at various strategic sites/points from where people could enjoy the beauty of the Taj Mahal at different angles. Mr. Janu had been taking especial interest in its management.
Then we moved to one of the sites of Ravine Reclamation, which had been developed to stabilize the land and arrest the soil erosion. Ravines are undulating landscape with small hillocks and numerous gullies in between. Once the ravines are formed, they continue to cut back and destroy even the vegetation on lands above them. In that particular site, the Social Forestry Division had undertaken soil and moisture conservation measures. Trenches had been dug-up at intervals across the slope in the gullies, and plants had been raised by broadcasting the seeds. Such method of planting was basically aimed at achieving as much soil and moisture conservation. Prosopis juliflora, Acacia nilotica, Acacia leucophloea, Zizyphus and Jatropa carcus had been grown. As per management plan, at least 3 plants per trench should be retained; along the boundary of plantation, cattle-proof-trench had been excavated. The site had been more or less stabilized. The area was sufficiently dense with Prosopis juliflora.
On being suggested rather asked by Amit if some other plants which could be more beneficial for the local people be raised instead of Jatropa, he readily acknowledged Amit’s view and told that there existed no mechanisms in the existing system to utilize the seeds of Jatropa; the forward linkages for the extraction of oils, etc. had not yet been established. Right then and there, Mr. Janu sir suggested his Rangers about convincing or creating awareness among the villagers, particularly the Village Forest Protection Committee to get one ‘expeller’, machinery used for oil extraction from jatropa seeds so that they could use the oil for their local and personal consumption.
In the afternoon, we enjoyed safari in river Chambal. The highlights of this safari were gariyal, crocodiles, dolphins, numerous birds like brahmi duck,
Visit to Bear Rescue Centre, Agra
While coming to Delhi, we visited the Bear Rescue Centre in Agra. Today, we were running short of time. Consequently, our visit to this centre was shortened; power-point presentation and interaction got reduced; we stayed there for not more than 30 minutes. This Bear Rescue Centre is a joint venture or more appropriately a collaboration between the Forest Department of Uttar Pradesh and Wildlife SOS (Save our Source) to rescue, rehabilitate and conserve the sloth bear.
Sloth bears have been an integral part of a nomadic gypsy tribe called ‘Kalandars’, who had been making livelihood through ‘Dancing Bear’- Indian sloth bear used for street entertainment purposes since the days of Mughal Empire.
The life of a dancing bear is one of extreme misery, with bear cubs stolen from their mothers in the wild when less than a month old, and their mothers are often killed in the process by poachers.
Here in the centre, we could see with our own eyes lot of bears: some basking in the sun, some others climbing up and down the small branchy, dried, clear stems erected within the enclosure, still others merely roaming about and so on.
The employees and officers of the Wildlife SOS showed us a documentary about the over-all conditions concerning the sloth bear and the consequences of the Kalandars. The documentary narrated that the Wildlife SOS took initiative in the rescue and rehabilitation of the animal, while the forest department provided all the legal, logistic and combative actions during rescue and rehabilitation process. It also contained the measures taken by the organization for the rehabilitation of the Kalandars. The bears rescued from them (Kalandars) are brought to the Centre, where they (bears) remain through-out the rest of their lives. The Kalandars, in return, are given a compensation of Rs. 50000 with which they are being rehabilitated by creating some other alternative activity like shops, knitting, tailoring for females and the like.
I asked one of the employees of the Centre regarding the breeding program. He informed me that breeding program was not in the mandate of the Rescue Centre; it was an exclusive domain of Zoos. He felt that it might happen too in future.
We also saw the hi-tech laboratory or operation theatre where they perform treatments and operations of the animals in the Centre. It was very informative; many of us felt that it could have been more beneficial if we had little more time to stay there.
We reached Delhi few minutes before the departure of the train. Everyone was very anxious and apprehensive whether we could be able to get into the train or not. Thankfully, we eventually managed somehow to do so. It was equally exciting. We reached Dehradun at 9.30 pm and thus concluded our West India Tour.